Beyond Mole: What to Eat and Drink in Oaxaca (+ Where to Eat It)
Looking for inspiration on what to eat in Oaxaca? Read on!
There are destinations you dream about for years, and then there is Oaxaca. For us, Oaxaca sat stubbornly at the very top of our culinary bucket list for what felt like forever. Every article we read, every chef we interviewed, every traveler we met seemed to whisper the same thing:
“If you love food, you have to go to Oaxaca.”
Click HERE to book an AUTHENTIC OAXACA CULTURAL FOOD TOUR on Viator and eat like a local!
So when we finally arrived, we were like children unleashed in the greatest candy store on Earth.
Mexico is already one of the world’s great culinary civilizations. Its cuisine is recognized by UNESCO as an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, and every region tells a completely different story through its ingredients.
Yet even within Mexico, Oaxaca occupies mythical status.
Often called the gastronomic capital of Mexico, it’s where ancient traditions remain remarkably intact, recipes are measured in generations rather than years, and food is still deeply intertwined with identity, ceremony, agriculture, and community.
What an honor it was to finally be there.
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A Place Where History Is Still Served Daily
Long before Spanish colonization, Oaxaca was home to sophisticated Indigenous civilizations including the Zapotec, Mixtec, Mazatec, Mixe, Chinantec, Chatino, and many others.
While the Aztecs eventually expanded into parts of the region, Oaxaca largely retained its own distinct cultures, languages, and culinary traditions. Today it remains one of the most culturally diverse states in Mexico, with more than a dozen Indigenous languages still spoken.
That diversity is reflected on every plate. Corn isn’t simply food—it’s ancestry. Chocolate isn’t dessert—it’s ritual. Mole isn’t sauce—it’s history.
Living in Los Angeles, we’re incredibly spoiled. Southern California probably has the best Oaxacan food outside Oaxaca itself. We regularly eat incredible mole, tlayudas, and quesillo prepared by families who brought these recipes north.
But eating them in Oaxaca? It felt like tasting them for the very first time.
Our first spoonful of mole at Casa Oaxaca was one of those rare travel moments where everything else disappears. The conversation stopped. Time slowed. There may—or may not—have been tears.
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It felt less like eating dinner and more like connecting with centuries of cooks, grandmothers, farmers, cacao growers, chile roasters, tortilla makers, and entire Indigenous civilizations through one impossibly complex bite.
A mandala of flavor. A living family tree made edible.
And while mole understandably gets most of the attention, Oaxacan cuisine stretches far beyond those legendary sauces. There are so many more dishes that deserve a place on your plate. Here’s what to eat in Oaxaca, in no particular order:
Click HERE to book an AUTHENTIC OAXACA CULTURAL FOOD TOUR on Viator and eat like a local!
20 Things to Eat and Drink in Oaxaca
1. Memelas
Think of them as Oaxaca’s answer to tacos. Fresh masa is shaped into thick oval tortillas, grilled, then topped with asiento (rich pork fat), black beans, salsa, quesillo, herbs, or whatever the family specializes in.
It’s then cooked on a hot comal – a type of local griddle. They’re humble, affordable, and utterly addictive
2. The Seven Classic Moles
No visit is complete without exploring Oaxaca’s legendary seven traditional moles:
- Mole Negro
- Mole Rojo
- Mole Coloradito
- Mole Amarillo
- Mole Verde
- Mole Chichilo
- Mole Manchamanteles
Each tells a completely different story. Some are earthy and smoky, others fruity, herbal, spicy, or subtly sweet. The famous Mole Negro alone can contain more than 30 ingredients, while many family recipes stretch well beyond 70.
Every household insists theirs is the best. They’re probably all right. Pro tip: look for mole served over pavo (turkey) for the most original way.
3. Molotes
Golden fried pockets stuffed with potatoes, cheese, chorizo, or seasonal fillings. Crispy outside, fluffy inside, and the perfect afternoon snack while wandering Oaxaca’s colorful streets.
4. Tlayudas
Often nicknamed the “Oaxacan pizza,” though that’s doing them a disservice.
Massive crisp tortillas are layered with asiento, beans, cabbage, avocado, quesillo, meats, salsa, and grilled until perfectly crunchy around the edges. They’re built for sharing—but you may not want to.
5. Tejate
Known as the “Drink of the Gods,” tejate is unlike anything else you’ll taste.
Made from toasted cacao, corn, mamey pits, and flor de cacao, it’s lightly fermented and naturally frothy, with a creamy texture despite containing no dairy. Refreshing, ancient, and deeply tied to Indigenous traditions.
6. Local Tamales
Forget everything you think you know about tamales.
Wrapped in banana leaves instead of corn husks, filled with mole, herbs, chicken, vegetables, or regional specialties, Oaxacan tamales are softer, more fragrant, and wonderfully varied.
7. Carne Asada at Pasillo de Humo
The legendary Pasillo de Humo (“Smoke Alley”) inside Benito Juárez Market is one of Oaxaca’s greatest food experiences.
Choose your meat, watch it grilled over charcoal, then enjoy it with mountains of salsa, tortillas, onions, guacamole, and freshly made accompaniments while smoke fills the market air. Pure magic.
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8. Chapulines
Crunchy toasted grasshoppers seasoned with garlic, lime, and chile.
Yes, they’re insects. They’re delicious. And yes, after one handful, you’ll understand why locals snack on them like popcorn.
9. Chicatanas & Gusanos
If you’re feeling adventurous, Oaxaca offers even more edible insects.
Flying ants (chicatanas) appear seasonally and are often ground into deeply savory salsas. Agave worms (gusanos) pair beautifully with mezcal and have been part of local cuisine for generations.
10. Mezcal
Tequila’s older, smokier cousin was born right here.
Crafted from dozens of agave varieties using traditional underground roasting methods, mezcal isn’t just alcohol—it’s agricultural heritage bottled. Sip slowly.
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11. Mezcalinas
A refreshing cocktail marrying mezcal with fresh citrus and seasonal fruit. Most popular options include jamaica (hibiscus) and maracuya (passiofruit). Perfect for warm Oaxacan afternoons.
12. Mezcal Negroni
One of our favorite discoveries. Replacing gin with mezcal transforms the classic Italian cocktail into something wonderfully smoky, earthy, and unmistakably Oaxacan.
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13. Quesillo
Known elsewhere as Oaxaca cheese, fresh quesillo is a revelation.
Pulled into long ribbons much like mozzarella, it’s creamy, stretchy, delicately salty, and infinitely better when eaten mere hours after being made.
14. Atole
Warm, comforting, and deeply traditional.
This thick corn-based drink has nourished families for centuries and comes flavored with chocolate, vanilla, cinnamon, fruit, or seasonal ingredients. Breakfast in a cup.
15. Local Cacao & Chocolate
A list of what to eat in Oaxaca wouldn’t be complete without its cacao. The state treats chocolate with the reverence it deserves.
Visit a molino where cacao is freshly ground with cinnamon, almonds, or sugar, then transformed into drinking chocolate that’s worlds away from anything sold commercially.
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16. Huitlacoche
Sometimes called “Mexican truffle,” this prized corn fungus develops naturally on maize and delivers rich, earthy, almost mushroom-like flavors.
It’s one of Mexico’s greatest delicacies.
17. Elotes
Simple perfection, with a Oaxacan twist. Fresh corn grilled over charcoal, slathered with mayonnaise, cheese, chile, lime, and whatever secret seasoning each vendor swears by.
Get it in form of street food from a cart or a more gourmet version at a restaurant. Pro tip for the latter: Ask for chapulines!
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18. Oaxacan Empanadas
Unlike their South American cousins, these corn masa empanadas are cooked on the comal before being folded around fillings like flor de calabaza, huitlacoche, mushrooms, cheese, or squash blossoms.
Simple. Beautiful. Comforting.
19. Marquesitas
Originally from Yucatán but now beloved throughout southern Mexico, these crisp rolled crepes come filled with everything from Nutella to fruit.
Our favorite? Leche quemada. Burnt milk caramel meets crisp wafer perfection.
20. … Simply Wander the Markets
Not every unforgettable bite has a name.
Visit Mercado Benito Juárez, Mercado 20 de Noviembre, neighborhood mercados and tiny family kitchens. Taste fruits you’ve never seen, salsas you’ve never imagined, tortillas pressed moments before they reach your hands.
Some of Oaxaca’s greatest meals don’t come from famous restaurants. They come from someone’s grandmother.
Click HERE to book an AUTHENTIC OAXACA CULTURAL FOOD TOUR on Viator and eat like a local!
Where to Eat and Drink in Oaxaca
One thing became abundantly clear after just a few days in Oaxaca: there simply aren’t enough meals in a weekend.
Every recommendation leads to three more, every market stall has a line of devoted locals, and every restaurant seems to have its own interpretation of recipes that have been passed down for generations.
We barely scratched the surface, but these were some of the places that made us fall even harder for Oaxaca’s extraordinary food scene.
Casa Oaxaca
If there is one meal we’ll remember for the rest of our lives, it’s this one. Chef Alejandro Ruiz’s iconic restaurant elevated traditional Oaxacan flavors without ever losing their soul.
This is where we experienced our first authentic mole in Oaxaca—and yes, it was emotional. The rooftop overlooking the Santo Domingo church makes it one of the city’s most magical dining experiences.
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Levadura de Olla
One of Oaxaca’s most celebrated restaurants, Levadura de Olla shines a spotlight on Indigenous ingredients and recipes from across the state’s diverse communities. Chef Thalía Barrios García treats traditional cuisine with both deep respect and remarkable creativity.
Criollo
Created by internationally acclaimed chef Enrique Olvera, Criollo offers a tasting menu rooted entirely in Oaxacan ingredients. Expect refined cooking that never forgets where it came from, all served in a stunning minimalist space.
Las Quince Letras
If your mission is authentic home-style Oaxacan cooking, make a reservation here. Family recipes, exceptional moles, seasonal specialties, and genuine hospitality make this one of the city’s true classics.
Crudo
One of Oaxaca’s most exciting surprises: an intimate Oaxacan omakase. Japanese precision meets exceptional Mexican seafood in a creative tasting experience that feels entirely unique.
Los Danzantes
Modern Oaxacan cuisine done with elegance and restraint. Expect beautifully plated dishes built around local ingredients, an excellent mezcal list, and one of the prettiest courtyards in the city. A wonderful introduction to contemporary Oaxaca.
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El Origen
A beautiful contemporary restaurant where traditional ingredients meet modern technique. Elegant without feeling pretentious, with standout tasting menus and excellent local wines.
La Olla
One of Oaxaca City’s pioneering farm-to-table restaurants, serving regional dishes prepared with seasonal ingredients sourced from nearby producers. The colorful dining room is almost as memorable as the food.
Pasillo de Humo (Smoke Alley)
Located inside Mercado 20 de Noviembre, Smoke Alley is an experience every meat lover should have. Choose your cut, watch it grilled over charcoal right in front of you, then enjoy it with fresh tortillas, salsa, guacamole, and smoky market atmosphere that’s impossible to replicate anywhere else.
Ancestral Cocina Tradicional
As the name suggests, this restaurant celebrates ancestral cooking methods and recipes that have survived for generations. A wonderful place to dive deeper into Oaxaca’s culinary roots.
Almú Tilcajete
A lesser-known gem showcasing traditional Oaxacan flavors with beautifully presented dishes. The focus remains squarely on local ingredients and regional specialties. Slightly out of town.
Restaurante Catedral
An elegant institution located near Oaxaca’s cathedral, serving polished interpretations of classic regional cuisine. Ideal if you’re looking for a refined lunch in the historic center.
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Humar
A newer addition to Oaxaca’s dynamic dining scene, Humar combines local ingredients with contemporary cooking while maintaining a strong sense of place.
Zandunga Sabor Istmeño
A delicious introduction to the cuisine of Oaxaca’s Isthmus of Tehuantepec region. Rich stews, seafood, and regional specialties offer flavors quite different from those found in Oaxaca City itself.
Mercado 20 de Noviembre
One of the city’s essential culinary destinations. Wander through endless food stalls serving mole, grilled meats, fresh tortillas, tamales, chocolate, and every imaginable Oaxacan specialty.
Totopo Güero Cocina Istmeña
Another fantastic destination for Isthmus cuisine, specializing in dishes built around the iconic totopo and regional recipes rarely found elsewhere.
Tacos del Carmen
Proof that some of Oaxaca’s best meals don’t require reservations. Outstanding tacos packed with flavor and beloved by locals.
Mercado Benito Juárez
The city’s most famous traditional market. Come hungry for chapulines, quesillo, mole pastes, tejate, chocolate, mezcal, fresh produce, and enough edible souvenirs to fill an extra suitcase.
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Atolería Tierra del Sol
A temple dedicated to atole. Their creative interpretations of this ancient corn-based drink make it clear why it has sustained generations of Mexicans.
La Popular
An unpretentious local favorite where traditional Oaxacan comfort food takes center stage. Exactly the kind of neighborhood restaurant we always hope to discover while traveling.
Memelas San Agustín
We saved the best for last. Memelas San Augustin is what street food is all about. Family run makeshift curb side street cart, plastic stools, the freshest tlayudas and memelas staright off a hot comal, freshly made hot sauce, and no other gringo in sight. By far the highlight of our Oaxaca food adventures.
Click HERE to book an AUTHENTIC OAXACA CULTURAL FOOD TOUR on Viator and eat like a local!
Oaxaca Best Bars & Mezcal Experiences
No trip to Oaxaca would be complete without exploring its liquid culture. After all, this is the birthplace of mezcal.
Sabina Sabe
Frequently ranked among Mexico’s best cocktail bars, Sabina Sabe crafts inventive drinks rooted in Oaxacan ingredients and exceptional mezcal. Every cocktail feels like a love letter to the region.
Mezcalería In Situ
If you only visit one mezcal bar, make it this one. More educational tasting room than trendy bar, In Situ offers an extraordinary selection of artisanal mezcals sourced from small producers across Oaxaca.
Mezcalogía
Part tasting room, part classroom, Mezcalogía specializes in helping visitors understand the incredible diversity of agave, terroir, and traditional production methods. An absolute must for anyone wanting to go beyond simply drinking mezcal.
Vino & Vinyl
A refreshing change of pace for wine lovers. Natural wines, carefully curated records spinning in the background, and an effortlessly cool atmosphere make it one of Oaxaca’s most enjoyable evening hangouts.
La Casa De Mezcal
Talk about a local dive bar… La Casa de Mezcal is the kind of place you’ll have one too many shots and probably make one too many friends. Don’t forget to study the history of the Aztecs as depicted on the murals all over the bar.
Truthfully, this list could easily be twice as long. Oaxaca is one of those rare food cities where every recommendation leads to another unforgettable meal, another family recipe, another clay pot that’s been simmering for generations.
The only real mistake is arriving without enough time—or enough appetite.
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A Place That Defended Its Food
Perhaps nothing says more about Oaxaca’s relationship with food than what happened when McDonald’s tried to open on Oaxaca City’s main square in the early 2000s.
Local residents, artists, chefs, and activists protested—not with violence, but with culture. They celebrated Indigenous cuisine, shared traditional foods like tamales, and argued that their culinary heritage deserved protection.
The proposal ultimately failed. In Oaxaca, food isn’t simply commerce. It’s identity.
So when you visit, don’t settle for tacos and enchiladas alone. They’re wonderful—but Oaxaca asks you to dig deeper.
Try the dishes your guidebook barely mentions. Order the drink whose name you can’t pronounce. Eat the insects. Ask questions. Follow the smoke.
That’s where the real Oaxaca lives.
Until Next Time, Oaxaca
We spent only a long weekend in this extraordinary city. It wasn’t nearly enough.
We’re already plotting our return. This time venturing farther into the mountains and villages where ancient traditions continue largely unchanged, including communities whose cultures remained remarkably resilient through centuries of history.
We want to meet more cooks, learn more family recipes, discover even more regional specialties, and eventually make our way to Oaxaca’s spectacular Pacific coast and the famed seafood of Puerto Escondido or the gastronomic delights of Huatulco.
Oaxaca stole our culinary hearts exactly as we knew it would. Mexico, somehow, became even more delicious.
Here’s to mole—all seven varieties, all seventy-plus ingredients, all those countless hours of stirring.
And here’s to the remarkable families who continue to protect this extraordinary culinary lineage, one clay pot of mole at a time.
Click HERE to book an AUTHENTIC OAXACA CULTURAL FOOD TOUR on Viator and eat like a local!
Images: Gaby Aziz & Jason Allen
Have you been to Oaxaca? What else would you add to the list of what to eat in Oaxaca? Let us know in the comments or tag @eightyflavors on socials!
OUR TRIED AND TESTED FOOD TRAVEL RESOURCES: Book a hotel with Booking.com. Search for the best flight deals on Skyscanner. Find the best local food tours on Viator. Browse curated conscious group trips with GAdventures. Get your travel insurance with World Nomads.
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